During your stay in Siena, after exploring the main attractions—from the majestic Duomo to the great shell of Piazza del Campo, and then following the wonders of the OPA, Santa Maria della Scala, Palazzo Pubblico… all that’s left is to discover the hidden treasures of the city.
For adventure lovers, the experience doesn’t end on the surface!
Siena, due to its hilly position and lack of significant rivers, has always had to rely on alternative methods, building an ingenious system of tunnels, the so-called bottini, where rainwater was collected.
Today, these ancient underground passages are open for visits.
THE UNDERGROUND CITY OF SIENA: THE BOTTINI
The term “buctinus,” probably referring to the “barrel vault,” first appeared in a document from 1226 and gave rise to the name Bottini, still used today for the underground aqueducts.
However, “aqueduct” is not the most accurate term to use.
While an aqueduct has always been essential for collecting rainwater for water supply, the Bottini are an exemplary construction, and thus invaluable, as they not only collect rainwater but also capture water and moisture from the underground, gathering water from the walls in the form of small droplets.
The soft and tuffaceous rock on which the city stands allowed for the digging of this ingenious system of tunnels, which today can be explored on foot, where the rainwater from the “gorello”—a small channel at the base of the walkway—flows until it reaches the historic fountains.
The Bottini extend over 25 km underground in Siena, representing a central element in the city’s history.
The guided tour allows small groups to venture into certain sections of Siena’s Bottini, specifically inside the Fonte Nuova branch and part of the main branch of Fonte Gaia.
The Bottini are an ancient and invaluable resource for the city, protected by the La Diana association, which is dedicated to the preservation and safeguarding of the Bottini, monumental fountains, and the entire historical, cultural, and architectural heritage related to the Waters of Siena.
Unfortunately, they are not open for visits during the summer due to the delicacy of the path, which becomes particularly vulnerable in high temperatures. Moreover, as an invaluable heritage, they must be preserved. For this reason, every year, the visit is allowed to only a maximum of 1000-1200 people, ensuring the protection of the microclimate.
Whether in summer or winter, the underground temperature, like a wine cellar, remains constant across seasons, maintaining a temperature between 15-16°C.
To fully immerse yourself in the atmosphere of the Bottini at the time of their construction, we’d like to share The Legend of the Omiccioli and the Fuggisoli.
This little story will take you to a slightly magical, almost “Tolkien-esque” world, inspired by the works of John Ronald Reuel Tolkien, author of The Lord of the Rings.
“The underground world of the Bottini’s 25 km of tunnels is still today a dark and mysterious world. It is said that during the time the Bottini were being built, the ‘guerchi’—the workers in charge of digging the tunnels—would sometimes flee terrified into the passages after seeing strange creatures living within. They claimed to have seen two types of creatures: the Omiccioli and the Fuggisoli.
The Omiccioli were small, elf-like creatures, good-natured, and they didn’t play tricks on people. They simply danced and spread joy. The guerchi were still very frightened by these creatures despite their harmlessness, due to their oddness and their connection to the underground world.
The Fuggisoli, however, were quite mischievous and appeared as sudden flashes of light, which terrified the workers. The word ‘fuggisoli’ likely refers to a strong light, like the sun, that appears and disappears quickly—literally ‘fleeing.’ These could have been gas emissions trapped in the earth, which, when released, created a flash of phosphorescent light, like will-o’-the-wisps. Such occurrences, witnessed by people unaware of these natural phenomena, certainly instilled fear, and wine was likely used to exorcise that fear.
To survive such harsh conditions, the guerchi sought help from the deities. In particular, the Madonna was often invoked. Many traces of this devotion remain today. There are many small terracotta Madonnas embedded in the walls and many crosses, sometimes carved with picks into the rock, requesting divine protection even under the earth’s surface.”
This story was taken from here.
Are you intrigued? It’s a unique, sensory experience that’s definitely worth trying.
However, for the safety of our guests, we recommend this experience only for those who don’t suffer from claustrophobia or other conditions related to underground environments.
For all the necessary information regarding the Bottini tours in Siena, you can visit the official website: https://www.comune.siena.it/node/480
AFTER THE UNDERGROUND ADVENTURE, YOU’LL BE HUNGRY!
Being in the heart of the city, you’ll be spoiled for choice between bars, osterias, and restaurants.
For a quick meal, a good aperitif with snacks, a platter, or a tasty sandwich full of authentic Sienese flavors, we recommend Du’ Cose da Berna. This lively little place is right in the historical center on Via Diacceto, just a stone’s throw from Piazza del Campo, where you can enjoy typical cheeses and cold cuts.
If you prefer a more traditional lunch or dinner, head to Antica Trattoria Papei, a historic establishment opened in 1939, located in Piazza del Mercato, a charming location beneath Piazza del Campo, where you can savor the flavors of Siena’s countryside.
Also in Piazza del Mercato, directly across from Antica Trattoria Papei, is Ristorante Casa Tua, a wonderful and elegant restaurant that offers not only traditional Tuscan meat dishes but also a refined selection of fish and fresh seafood for all tastes.
And if you haven’t ordered dessert yet, head down the small stairs at the corner of the square to find the Tea Room, a charming retro-style tea room offering a wide selection of fine teas, liquors, pastries, and delicious cakes.
After a long day exploring Siena, we look forward to welcoming you back to Borgo Grondaie for a well-deserved rest, wrapped in comfort!
